By Florence Fabricant

Simon Oren, who owns a string of regional French and Middle Eastern restaurants, is cutting a broader culinary swath — Europe and America — with this substantial Midtown restaurant. The spacious dining room, the former Maloney & Porcelli (or if you’re old enough, the Gloucester House), is done in elegant contemporary style with an open kitchen, plush banquettes and a stretch of bar designed by Mr. Oren’s partners Dudi Sasson and Scott Kester. A balcony fitted with banquettes and tables extends the capacity to 200. The executive chef, James Tracey, of Mr. Sasson’s Isabelle’s Osteria, is offering an ambitious menu of smoked beef tartare, a fall harvest salad with figs and pumpkin, pork trotter and sweetbread roulade, lumache pasta with duck and goose Bolognese, roast chicken, several steaks, prime rib, and whole turbot with crawfish mousseline, serving four to six.